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SUBSEQUENT YEARS Hops will die back to the permanent root stock (crown) each fall. The crown is hearty, and relatively unaffected by even the deepest winter freeze. Hop vines break ground at about the same time the earliest spring flowers appear. Hops grow back much stronger after they have developed a good root system. Prune the earliest shoots back to the ground to encourage heartier second growth.

HARVEST AND DRYING Hops should be harvested before the first frost. The actual date will vary depending on your location, but mid-August to mid-September is most common. Hops are ready to harvest when the aroma is strongest. Test the aroma by smelling a crushed hop cone. As you squeeze a mature hop between your fingers, you should notice a yellow powder from the lupulin glands. Ripe cones will feel dry and papery. With some varieties the color will be lighter. Slight browning of the lower bracts of the cone is normal, and a good sign of maturity.

Lower the hop vine to the ground to begin the harvest. Pick only the cones, not the leaf material. Dry hops before usage or storage. In dry weather, airdrying is preferable. Spread them shallowly onto a window screen, and keep them out of direct sunlight. Every day you should “fluff” the hops to bring moist hops to the outside of the pile. The hops are dry when the inner stem of the hops is brittle. It should break rather than bend. If you must dry hops with a food dehydrator or in the oven, keep the temperatures under 140 degrees.Store hops away from oxygen. Most home growers don’t have access to oxygen-barrier bags and vacuum sealers, so the best compromise is to pack as many hops as possible into a ziplock-style freezer bag. Squeeze them tight to remove as much air as possible and seal the bag. Store hops frozen until used. USAGE Homegrown hops are typically used for aroma, flavor or dry hopping. Since precise alpha acids are not known, it is a challenge to use them for bittering. A few test batches may be necessary to get the feel for the potency of the hop. Use homegrown hops in the same quantity (by weight) as commercial hops. Leaf hop utilization is about 15% less than pellets.

 
       
       
                      How to make your first  Home Brew Beer    Simplified    See Video   Wood Wine Box   Sweet
 

         1 -  Bring  4 - 1/2 gals of water to 150 to 170 Degrees

                                        Turn off Flame

    2 - Put grain into Muslim bag   Seep for 30 min
        Then rinse them out grain bag  hot water get all the flavor /  (Don’t squeeze)

     

     3 – Add Malt Syrup  rinse all  of  it out of bag / bottle  Yum Yum

                 Bring to rolling Boil   begin 60 min timer

       4   Add Hops in Muslim Bag   
                 

        5 -   Then last 15 min of boil add  Wart Tablet 
                               and Second hops Small bag

 

     6 -  Last 10 mins of boil insert copper coil  for cooling  let set in water to disinfect    
                           
Cool down boiling  water   about 70 to 75 Degrees

 

   7  Remove Hop Bags  and Poor wart into sterilized Jug

               Top off  with cold water to get 5 Gal of wart

8 -   wiggle your Bottle of wart around to get air for the yeast

Add Yeast then put Airlock

Wait 2 weeks to bottle  “Hurry

 

Sprouting the Hop seeds 

 

 

They require a cold stratification period of dormancy,
 Here are some basic steps that I followed:

 

1  - Soak the seeds in a slight bleach solution to sterilize the surface.

2 -  Place the seeds ziplock with a barely wet (wrung out) paper towel.

3 - Store at 40F in the fridge for a month.

4 - After a month, move the seeds to a +70F area.

5 - As they individually sprout, move the seeds to soil

At this point only a few of the seeds have sprouted.

If, after a few weeks, there is no sign of further activity, I plan to repeat steps 2-4.

 

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As Easy As I Can Make It” Red Wine Recipe

By Home Brew It

 

Makes 1 gallon.

 

This is as simple as I can make it, other than my Freaked Out Hippie Recipe.
     I cannot stress enough to try to make sure all your utensils are clean or sterile as possible.

 

Ingredients

◾5 pounds Concorde grapes

◾2 quarts water

◾2 pounds sugar

◾1 package wine yeast

 

Instructions

1.Lightly crush grapes in a primary fermenting container.

2.Dissolve sugar in water and add to crushed grapes (called must).

3.Pour one pack of yeast into 2-3 ounces of water heated to 104 – 109 degrees F. Do not stir and let sit for 15

  minutes only. Then stir to suspend yeast and add to must.

4.Note that you can use bread yeast, but your wine might taste like cider. Or you can also do it the old fashioned way: take your chances and not add any yeast and let it ferment naturally.

5.Stir well and cover fermentor loosely.

6.Let ferment for 7 days, stirring twice daily.

7.After seven days, remove the pulp and siphon off the liquid through a course strainer into a secondary fermentor (a 5 gallon glass jug or one gallon glass containers) Leave some breathing room in these bottles. Any extra liquid should be kept for topping off when racking.

8.Top with a rubber bung and airlock. Or you can use the 70s way and put a balloon on top, secured with a rubber band or good string. Put one pinhole in the balloon if using this method.

9.Let ferment 3-4 weeks then rack (siphon off, liquid leaving sediment behind) into clean secondary fermentor. Repeat airlock or balloon method for another 4 - 6 weeks or until fermentation has stopped.

10.Siphon off and bottle.

11.Age for one year.

How long should beer be left
in the carboy before bottling/kegging?
While there may be much debate about whether secondary fermentation is necessary or not,
Midwest suggests trying it once and judging for yourself. We think you’ll see, smell, and taste a
noticeable difference in the quality of your beer. As soon as you are seeing one bubble a minute
or less coming out of the airlock of your primary fermenter (usually after 1-2 weeks for most ales,
and about 2 months for most lagers), it’s time to transfer (or “rack”) your brew to a glass carboy
or Better Bottle for secondary fermentation.
Several styles of beer will benefit from a longer secondary fermentation. This time gives the
beer a chance to settle naturally and for the flavors to blend properly.
Light Ales: 1 week primary/1-2 weeks secondary
For a style like Liberty Cream Ale, Honey Bee Ale, Aussie Light Ale, etc., we would recommend
one week in primary, and 1-2 weeks in secondary. The lighter flavor of these beers allows the beer
to be drinkable sooner because you are not waiting for the alcohol bitterness to subside, or for the beer to mellow out.  After you have transferred it to your secondary carboy add
   1 U.S. fl. oz  or  5 teaspoons WilliamsWarn 1L (34 U.S fl. Oz) Clarification Agent for Home Brewing  
and stir gently repeat this process 24 hours later and that should do the trick!    williamswarn.com
You are just waiting for the beer to clear to your liking. So, once it is clear enough, feel free to bottle or keg.  

 Reasons for racking

There are three main reasons for racking. Firstly, if you wish to ferment your beer longer than say 10 days, moving the beer off the yeast cake will reduce the risk of autolysis, a process whereby yeast cells, having consumed all other available food, begin to metabolise each other, creating a foul taste. Secondly, the time spent in the secondary gives the beer time to clear, as solids in the beer settle out. Thirdly, the time the beer spends in the secondary fermenter is a period during which the beer matures and the flavours smooth out. A period of time maturing in a fermenter is more beneficial than maturation in a bottle, as larger volumes make maturation easier and more effective.

Additionally, racking is the most common ways to do bulk priming. Bulk priming is where you dissolve a measured amount of sugar into your fermented beer just prior to bottling in order to achieve consistent and accurate carbonation in every bottle regardless of bottle size. It has the additional bonus that you don't have to stuff about priming every bottle individually. By racking onto your sugar you avoid stirring up the trub, as you would if you tried to stir the sugar into the primary (or secondary) fermenter.

 

 

 

 

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Grain Brewing with Pictures

Moving to All Grain 

 After you have some experience with Extract Brewing, you will inevitably find yourself wanting to make the move to All Grain. While the all grain brewing process does take 1-2 hours longer (for the Mashing and Sparging processes, it offers a much wider range of ingredients and better control over the brewing process. This article details some of the items you need to consider when moving from extract brewing to all grain brewing.

 

Equipment

All grain brewing does involve an added investment in equipment. Here I assume you already have a 5 gallon fermenter, racking and bottling equipment but probably lack some of the items below:

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 Mash TunLarge Boil Pot - For all grain brewing you will need to boil the full size of your brew (usually 5 gallons) plus a gallon or so additional wort that will boil off during your 60-90 minute boil. In addition you need some space at the top to avoid boil-over. We recommend at least an 8 gallon pot for a 5 gallon batch size, or 14 gallon pot for a 10 gallon batch. In addition you will need a second pot equal to your batch size that you can use to heat water for sparging.

Outdoor Propane Burner - While it is possible to heat your huge pot over several burners on a stove, it can be quite dangerous moving large amounts of wort around and it also takes a very long time. A high BTU propane burner is relatively cheap and will boil your wort quickly in the driveway or on the back patio with less mess. Don't use it in an enclosed area however!

Gott Style Cooler - A water cooler makes the best Mash Tun for most homebrewers. A 5 gallon cooler can easily be converted to serve as a mash tun and lauter tun - and the insulation will make it very easy to do an infusion Mash. See the Mash Tun link for details on how to add a false bottom to your cooler.

An Immersion Chiller - While not strictly needed, it does take a very long time to cool 5 gallons of boiling wort without a chiller. Cooling your beer quickly reduces the risk of infection and also helps many undesirable proteins and tannins to fall out of the beer before ferementation.

 

The All Grain Process

 

All grain brewing starts with the Mashing process. All of your grains are crushed first, and the crushed grains are placed in your Mash Tun. Hot water is then added to the mash tun to raise the temperature of the mixture to between 148F and 158F. Typically water is mixed with grains at a rate of approximately 1.25-1.5 quarts per pound of grain. The temperature and amount of water for the infusion can be calculated using a tool such as BeerSmith. You then cover your mash tun and leave the mash for 45-60 minutes. During this time, complex sugars are broken down into simple sugars that yeast can easily consume. One typically stirs the mash every 10-15 minutes to prevent hot spots from developing in the cooler.

 

In the next step, called Sparging, hot water is added to the top of your mash tun and drained through the false bottom into your boiler. It takes time to extract the sugars from the grains, so don't rush this process. I usually allot at least 20-30 minutes to fully sparge the mash tun and extract about 6 gallons of wort for a 5 gallon batch.

 

Once you have the hot wort extracted, the rest of the process of Boiling, Cooling and Fermenting the wort is the same as it would be for an extract brew. There are only two differences. First, you will use less hops during the boil because your wort is not as concentrated - meaning that more bitterness is extracted from the same amount of hops. The best way to account for this is to use some brewing software such as BeerSmith to calculate the bitterness of your brew and adjust your hops accordingly. The second obvious change is that you are boiling a much larger amount of wort, and need to be cautious when handling large heavy pots and also need a good cooling system to cool the wort as quickly as possible. However, the rest of the brewing process is just as it was with extract brewing.

 

The process can be a little messy the first time, but remember it gets much easier after a few

 

 

 

All Grain Brewing   Video

Is it worth Brewing your own Beer 

My Fridge say's so

       
 

  

 

Bottling Homebrew with Flavored Liqueur

Adding liqueur at bottling time is one way of adding flavors to your homebrew, especially when making a fruit beer. Liqueurs are lower-alcohol spirits flavored with fruit, herbs, spices, or nuts, and then sweetened.

 These concoctions are normally used for flavoring cocktails or coffee, but they Measure out a small sample of beer and add the liqueur in .1 mL increments. Keep in mind that most of the sweetness in the liqueur will ferment out. Scale up when you find the right ratio. For example, if .1 mL liqueur per 1 ounce beer is the magic number, multiply by 128 (ounces in a gallon) then by 5 (gallons in a batch) to arrive at 64 mL of liqueur. Plan for an increase in alcohol content –

Two cups of a typical liqueur will add about 1% ABV to your five-gallon batch of homebrew. to arrive at how much liqueur to use for bottling. Just keep in mind that depending on the flavor of the liqueur, you may or may not want to use that much. Let’s work through an example: Say you’re brewing Captain Cogsworth Coffee Stout, but instead of priming with coffee and sugar, you use eight ounces (by weight) of a 40 proof coffee liqueur. Measuring the specific gravity of the liqueur, you get 20˚ Plato. Multiply the proof (40) by .106 = 4.24˚P 20 + 4.24 = 24.24˚P 8 (weight of liqueur in ounces) * .2424 (percent sugar in liqueur) = 1.94 oz. sugar In this example, the 8 ounces (by weight) of coffee liqueur contributes the equivalent of 1.94 oz. of priming sugar.

 

 

 Adjust your priming sugar addition accordingly. Alternatively, if you want to prime with just liqueur, take the total amount of priming sugar and divide by the total sugar percentage from above: 5 oz. priming sugar / .2424 = 20.63 oz. liqueur (by weight) Add 20.63 ounces (by weight, not volume) of the liqueur at bottling time. -

 

 

 DIY Cherry Liqueur

IIngredients

  • 6 cups Bing cherries, pitted
  • 1 cup brandy
  • 1/2 cup vodka
  • 1 cup water
  • 1 cup sugar
  • 1 cinnamon stick, broken (optional)

Directions

  1. 1.

    Put the pitted cherries at the bottom of a sealable glass jar and muddle them with a wooden spoon or muddler to release some juice. Drain the juice into a separate container and set aside. Then add the brandy, vodka, and cinnamon stick to the muddled cherries. Seal and shake the jar. Let steep for one week at room temperature away from direct sun, shaking every few days.

    2 - Combine the reserved cherry juice, sugar, and water in a pan and bring to a boil, stirring frequently until sugar dissolves. Remove from heat and let cool. Once the syrup is cooled, add it to the steeping jar, seal, and shake. Then let it steep for an additional 2 to 5 days. Strain through fine-mesh sieve lined with cheesecloth into glass jar or bottle. Store in the refrigerator for up to 3 months.

 

Ace of Spades
Bobs On left
 
 
Day 1  " Beer on  Right,  
 Dianne;s Beer
Will it get Lighter? 
  it's Dark  now Just Brewed

Fermenting Beer Video    WOW

  

 On Left
 Day 2  " Wait "  It's getting Lighter

 On Right   3rd Day   Wow

     

        Ace Of Spades  Left  Right   2 weeks Later   Now  

                                                 WOW Time to bottol    

2nd Dianne.s Beer Brew   Feb 21  First Day   Light again  Yes

 

                                                       Ace of Spades Right Bobs

                              

http://www.northernbrewer.com/the-plinian-progeny-all-grain-kit

 

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On the Brewing of Double IPAs

Things have been quiet around here for the last few months. A combination of insane travel schedules and work responsibilities have left me very little time to brew. In fact, I have just two things happening at the moment: w00tstout in secondary (on bourbon-soaked oak chips), and Pompey the Great on draft.

The Pompey The Great (my name for Northern Brewer’s Plinian Legacy) I made is on tap in the game room, now, and it’s delicious. I’m finding that I love double IPAs more than their traditional counterparts because of the malt sweetness that balances the bitterness. Don’t get me wrong — I still love a good Ruination from time to time — but DIPAs like Pliny and Firestone’s Double Jack (and the limited-release Double DBA, if you can find it) are rapidly becoming my go-to choices.

So let’s talk a little bit about the things we need to consider when we’re making a double IPA, as opposed to a traditional IPA. These notes primarily apply to all-grain, but there’s advice for extracts in here, too:

  • I